Inis Mór Sports Climbing

I recently spent three stunning days on Inis Mór checking out some of the newly bolted sports climbs. Climbing on Inis Mór is a bit more involved as most ledges need to be accessed by abseil. You also need to pay attention to tidal swells. Phone signal can also be intermittent given the remote location.

We spent the three days climbing at Point Fiain. This is easiest of the island's sports crags to access and is about a 45 minute walk from the village. Access is by a short 10m abseil onto the east end of an elevated sea ledge. Remember to bring a jumar or gri gri as you will need these to ascend the ab rope when exiting. A rope protector is also advised as the rock edges are sharp.

Once you are on the sea ledge you are greeted with approx. 300m long ledge raised above the Atlantic Ocean. The limestone cliffs rises 25m above the ledge. Rock quality is fantastic, very compact and bomber.  

There is currently over a dozen routes from 6a+ to 7a+ bolted at Pointe Fiain. New routes are being added regularly and I would expect the number to increase significantly as word of sport climbing on the Aran Islands gets out. Routes are steep, bouldery, and technical. Having a clipstick can help with the start of some of the harder routes.  

Some route pictures below:

Soak up the scenery as you walk out after a days climbing. Remember that the land above the cliffs is privately owned so leave it as you found it and be friendly to the local land owners. To date bolting has been funded by a small number of climbers. If you would like to see more routes bolted consider making a donation to the bolt fund.

You can find the detailed online route guide here. Download a copy before you go as phone reception at the crag is patchy.