Climbing In The Burren

Had a great weekend trip to The Burren for a spot of climbing and surfing. Seven of us headed down Friday afternoon and arrived early enough to check out the location of the bouldering in Doolin and the sea cliffs at Ailladie. We stayed at the Aille River Hostel in Doolin which is a great little hostel and only 5 minute walk from some great pubs.

We spent Saturday morning bouldering in Doolin where there is a mixture of large truck size boulders and high ball vertical wall problems. There is a 10 minute walk in to the boulder spot which is a sea shelf just above the high tide mark. There are about 50 problems ranging from 4 to 7a.

In the afternoon we moved to Ailladie to climb on the sea cliffs. There are over 150 routes ranging from D up to E7. Most routes are in the higher grades but there are plenty in the lower grades to keep you busy for a few days. There is also the option of a small inland crag at Ballyryan next to the road. I warmed up with a lead on Gogo, HS 4b, which my daughter seconded. Next I moved on to lead Ground Control, VS 4c. A great little route with a bouldering start followed by steep fingery climbing along a well protected crack.

On Sunday my daughter and I headed up to Fanore for some surfing lessons at the Aloha Surf School. We had a great few hours learning to surf and getting very wet. Great little surf school with friendly staff. Surfing is a good alternative if you get rained out climbing down the road in Ailladie.

After surfing we headed back to Ailladie for last few routes on Sunday afternoon. I attempted Nutrocker, HVS 5a, but had a moment when I kicked out my last bit of protection with my foot when moving for the crux. The body was also tired after the surfing so I down climbed and stripped the route.

Enjoyable trip in a beautiful part of the country. I will definitely go back with the intention of finishing Nutrocker and a few more routes.